Friday, June 13, 2008
Post # 11: Bucharest and England
I've written and rewritten this post 5 times and can't seem to come up with anything too interesting to say. Right about the time I was planning where I should go next, I received notice from back home that there are some things cooking on the business front that need my attention. After roughly 40 days of conversations in broken English as well as many other languages, I decided that it was best to head to bloody old England and refamiliarize myself with the Queen’s English before heading home. I have a friend there, in Colchester actually, and I reached out so I could share some of this damn happiness I’m experiencing. I started out with a day in London, took a Thames River tour and have photos to load later, then to Nottingham with my friend, then back to Colchester where I am now.
These Brits are a very cool bunch, significantly cooler than us Americans. They use words like opulent, brilliant, and sterling in every day conversations. Some of my British favs: cheers (thanks), way out (exit), wanker, cheeky fellow, bugger off, piss off, fuck off, and my all time favorite, blowy. “Let me know if it’s too blowy back there”. Now, THERE’S a sentence I haven’t heard nearly enough in my life….only it would have been better served if it didn’t come from my cab driver.
I am booked on a flight back to NY this Monday, and will be staying in a hotel for a few weeks until my sublet is up. Kind of a pain, but I did rent my apartment out to my neighbor and his wife while their unit is being renovated. I’m trying to swing the use of his Shelter Island house for July weekends so we’ll see what happens.
There is someone I would really like to see in Estonia but I don’t know if I have time to get there and back in time. I may try to fit in a quick bullet train to Paris or Brussels before I return home, but outside of that, my Euro 2008 is coming to an end.
I really appreciate the emails from everyone and I will try to post again either before I leave or once I am back home. See you all very soon...
Wednesday, June 4, 2008
emails
I originally posted something else here but removed and shortened it. The main purpose of this post was to share some of the emails I received and not to clarify my previous post.
Anyhooo, without further ado, I give you the top 2 emails (names have been hidden and identifying comments removed to protect the innocent):
EMAIL # 1:
Subject: Emotional
Body of email:
"I wept openly as you commented on your longing to find self and happiness. It was an extremely emotional moment for me. Did you consume any bad shellfish??"
EMAIL # 2:
Subject: jesus christ
Body of email:
"i come to this blog to live vicariously thru your adventures because i am up to my eyeballs in "shared happiness" and you reward me with this ultra introspective yackity-yack about missing home and feeling incomplete?? FYI - i thought you just missed cigarettes...
I must say that the intro to the new section was quite nice and the tongue ring well-placed for maximum pleasure only to have it all quickly fall apart into complete chaos.
However, i must admit to sharing some of the same feelings when i left the USA to live in XXXXXXXX at age XX.
these questions are bound to happen to the lone traveller, but don't sacrifice the tremendous journey you are undergoing now to try to answer these life questions now...enjoy the moment...then come back and figure it out = just my 2 cents....
"
So, there you have it...great stuff.
Also, thank those of you that have emailed me as well as posted comments (Marnie, Leslie, and the fellas at AD). I appreciate all of it...even the Wah burger with a side of cries. You forgot the extra heaping of humble pie.
I am in Bucharest now, let the journey continue...
Tuesday, June 3, 2008
Post # 10: Chisinau
Anyhow, I quickly found an apartment to rent for a few days and off I went. Five hours on a circa 1960 bus with nothing but farms as far as the eye could see, I ended up at the Chisinau bus station. Here was one of the first sites:
During the days, I found myself reading in a few of the parks as well as hopping on and off the $0.10 tram rides that took me from one end of the city to the other. I went by the main university and got some contacts in the guidance counselors office in case I decided to build a nice little business at a later date (by the way, the same holds true of Odessa, only the English there is not nearly as prevalent). At night, I visited some of the more popular lounges and a few American type bars/mini-discos. I didn't hit any night clubs mostly because the people I had met at these lounges said they weren't any good. I left the camera at the apartment most of the time because I was tired of looking like a tourist but couldn't resist bringing it out one night. It must have been after the 19th email from friends saying "enough with the apartment videos, show us the girls!!" that convinced me to bring the camera out and about.
I had become a regular in this little American-friendly bar that turns into a mini-disco at midnight. The bartender and I had become friends and should I come back for business, she promised to get me to the right people in town. Here she is (the blonde with the tongue ring) and here's a photo of Massimo and his lady friend.
He's an Italian banking guy I met who was in town with some high-up Italian politicians setting up more business between the 2 countries.
Here's a video of my bartender friend (Oksana) dancing behind the bar...so cute...and a photo of the 2 girls she sat next me...this place sucks:
And finally, a video of one of the Italian banking guys (probably about 50 years old) that got caught walking by the shot girl...big mistake.
Did you happen to notice the very hungry girl seated to my right? I swear I thought she was going to eat me...too bad she was so shy.
So, the rest of my stay in Chisinau, I took a few tours of the city and visited a museum or two...tourist-ish things that I had all but avoided until now. It wasn't until I walked outside the last museum that I started to get homesick...and this was the culprit:
It was right there, at that moment where it all hit me square in the face...I miss home. WTF am I doing traveling around Europe, by myself, in the middle of summer, when everything I know and have ever known is waiting for me back in the states? Was I running from something? Was I looking for something? Was I looking to just get outta dodge and break free? The questions just kept coming; I had no answers other than a resounding "NO" to every one of them.
Believe me, the last thing I would have ever expected in my life was to wake up one day...40 and single...and in Chisinau?? Am I tired of being alone? That's one question I'm starting to have to answer with a Yes. Maybe that is what's eating me and prompted this trip. I was too busy working and living to realize that I was truly alone. I was too busy planning to see the forest for the trees (whatever the hell that means). Didn't someone once say that life is what happens while you're busy making other plans? All this is probably going to sound sappy as all hell and I'm sure I'll hear it from the boys via email, but it just has to be said. Maybe Christopher McCandless was right, although he realized it too late; Happiness is isn't real unless it is shared. Or maybe I just simply missed Bond Street sushi?
It was then that I decided it was time to leave and head at least in the general direction of home...and planned my trip to Bucharest in hopes the questions would subside.
Monday, May 26, 2008
Post # 9: videos I never uploaded
Next up I was invited to go sail the Black Sea by my roommates' friend Ben. Ben has been living in Odessa for 2 years as an English teacher, and is originally from the UK. I think he served for their royal army. In the video I am untying the sails before we set off.
Here we have Ben trying to figure out the issue with the sails...see if you can spot the dummy tangled up in the lines and my roommate offering much help (narrating).
And finally the onset of a full blown panic attack. a) I'm not so good with heights; b) The only word I could muster was "hmmm". 4 minutes later, we were moving again...good thing I had wodka with me.
I have more stories and things to post but it's getting late here and I'm trying to plan my next leg of the trip. I think I've learned about as much as I can here in Odessa and it's about time I hit the road before I get too comfortable.
Friday, May 23, 2008
Post # 8: Odessa with Borat
As far as happenings...hmmm, the futbol match I watched was probably one of the best matches I have seen. Here's a photo of my new friend Slavo who I met at the sports bar while watching the game.
My new roomie and I went out last night, first to a Ukrainian restaurant, then to a lounge, then to another lounge. For dinner, I ordered the veal stew, which was absolutely delicious...if it weren't for the fact that it had more garlic per kilogram than any dish in the world, it would have been perfect.
The lounge scene was really quite interesting. Most of the people sadly do not speak English, and if they do, it's more of "Hi, my name Natasha, I secretary". The more educated Ukranians realize that in order to have the better opportunities, learning other languages is crucial. I have met several Ukranians that fall into this category, including Eugene pictured here in the Height Ashbury sweatshirt.
So, the rest of the night last night and during the day today we strolled through the busier streets of Odessa. To give you an idea of what the style is like, take a look at what's hot on the streets of Odessa this season....(photos taken off the internet and not by me):
It's now Friday night and I expect to go to a nicer restaurant/lounge type place and really get to see how Odessians spend their weekends. I hope to post more over the next few days, and I also hope to get out of here and on to the next destination...just not sure where that is yet.
Wednesday, May 21, 2008
Post # 7: Odessa
My hotel is average at best, but it's 10 blocks from the main street (Deribasovskaya). I'm only here 2 nights as for my apartment search started and ended in 3 minutes. Using the site hospitalityclub.org (another page out of The 4-Hour Workweek) I got in touch with an ex-patriot who gave me a large list of things to do. A phone call to him on my way to dinner last night resulted in the two of us meeting for a bite. Kevin turns out is from California and living in Odessa for a little over a year. He speaks Russian and gave me a few lessons that actually had me reading signs in about 3 minutes...cool! I can't understand a lick of it, but maybe I'll take some lessons while here.
In any event, dinner for two consisted of a sort-of Philly cheese steak sandwich for him, we split potato croquettes, and I had a chicken kabob dish...washed down with a coke for him, 2 waters for me, and a mini-carafe of vodka that probably poured a total of 3 or 4 vodkas each. All that was $26.00. Yikes, I'm a super magnate here....look out or I may just tip you 25%!
Ok, so Kevin...he's a real nice guy, one helluva host, probably 30 years old, and reminds me a lot of myself at that age...as for I, like him, was a jack of all trades, master of none. By the time I had reached that age, I had: a car wash/pressure clean/yard cleaning/moving furniture business during summers of college (called Nice College Kids), dabbled in sports gambling, had a short-lived sports-focused 900# business, owned 2 bars on south beach, had a minority interest in a start up telecom company that I later became more involved in, and for my day job, was VP of a family parking lot/garage business.
This guy's pretty much been all over Europe, and is currently working on: document translation services, business consulting, marraige consultant (uh oh), real estate broker (although not licensed), english teacher (again, not licensed), self improvement workshops similar to tony robbins stuff but more related to getting europeans to open up and smile, as well as a few other things. So, in our discussions about apartments, he gave me several options, most in the $95-$150/night range, then saved the best for last. A $70/night room in a 2 bedroom penthouse...as his roommate. I told him it was the best price I had seen, but I would have to see it first. I will get a video of it at a later date, but it was a cool place, probably about 2,000 square feet, and this guy speaks English AND Russian. Sold. I move in tomorrow afternoon...open ended. My guess is it'll be about a week or so, possibly longer, but we'll see.
I have photos and videos to load, but internet slow in the hotel...will do them soon. Tonight I'm off to watch the Futbol Champions League final match between 2 of my favorite teams, both from England. I'll be rooting for Chelsea. This is sort of the Super Bowl of Europe as for it's the final game of a competition between the top teams in each European country. Very rare that 2 teams from one country are in the final...sort of like 2 teams from the same state making the super bowl or world series, although it does happen (mets/yankees) so it's a pretty big match.
Again, great emails I'm receiving and glad that my typing is not falling on deaf ears. Keep them coming.
Nostrovia!
Monday, May 19, 2008
Post # 6: Ljubljana
and there's this one:
As for the rest of the trip, it rained today and most of yesterday, so I took advantage and actually started to plan out the rest of my trip. The internet connection here at Vila Minka is great, so I've been taking care of some things that I didn't finish before I left. But to summarize my 5 days here in Ljubljana...Slovenians are a very friendly, hard working bunch. I notice that their office day starts pretty early, 7:30 or 8 am I think. Everyone under the age of say 40 speaks English fluently, and most of them speak at least 3 languages. It was quite impressive to have the Ipod store guy speak Slovenian on the phone, assist me in English, help the next guy in French, and I'm sure he speaks Italian as well. Due to their proximity to Italy, ice cream or gelato is HUGE here and a lot of locals speak Italian.
Slovenian food was significantly better than Spanish cuisine; the only issue I had was their confusion of some English phrases. Most evident was actually the best tasting dish I had since I left the states. It was sea bass, served with some kind of potato and either broccoli or spinach mixture. It was amazing but its name...wait for it...."Pretty Fishy". I tried to explain to the waiter that they probably meant to name it Pretty Fish because when something is "fishy", well, it's usually not so good. Needless to say, this was not fishy at all, and actually quite pretty since they braided the sea bass fillets into a pie-like formation. I ended up speaking to another solo traveler who was seated next to me, a brown-haired, librarian-type Swedish girl who was in Slovenia for a conference. She's essentially the equivalent of a PHD student who's working on a project (ex-swedes who moved away and are working abroad). I told her I knew such a person in the states (hi Angelica) and I'd get the two of them in touch.
And finally, the dollar-euro thing again. Your euro goes significantly further here (all comparisons I'm using 1.5:1 euro to dollar even though it's a few pennies more):
A local beer: 1.50 euro = $2.25
vodka soda: 3.00 euro = $4.50
pasta dinner: 7.00 euro = $10.50
a cappuccino, an ice cream, or bus ride: 1.00 euro = $1.50
ham and cheese sandwich: 3.00 euro = $4.50
Basically, I saved a fortune by being here instead of NYC this week. If you are planning on coming to Slovenia, I highly recommend staying at Vila Minka and I also recommend renting a car.
Now for what will surely be the least expensive leg of the trip; Odessa, Ukraine. I was headed to Italy this week, but it's supposed to rain there and most of central europe all week long...crap. I have a friend going to Italy for 2 weeks so if the rain clears up, I'll be there. After another quick check of the weather forecast, the only clear skies were Bucharest or Odessa...so that's where I'm headed. I'll make it back to Italy next week when the weather clears up or possibly hit Bucharest and Budapest first.
Also, the emails I have received are great. The more I receive, the more inspired I am to keep posting and it's nice to know people are actually reading this thing. Feel free to email me some thoughts or just a simple hello! Oh, and Mom, I have a hotel booked, a ride picking me up at the airport, and a local guide for the first 2 days to show me around...so no more "you're too old to be staying in a hostel" texts!
;-)
Saturday, May 17, 2008
Post # 5: Slovenia: Ljubljana
The flight from Sevilla-Barcelona-Ljubljana went very smoothly, arrived in LJ on time to a relatively new airport. My mercedes taxi (it was either that or a BMW and I'm no dummy) took me to the center of town where I was to search for accomodations. I had purposefully not booked something because I didn't want to make the same mistake I made in Sevilla (reserving a room in a hotel that was in the "center" of town only to find out it was 10 minutes by cab away). My virtual assistant sent me a listing of approx 10 places to stay all within the city center. Problem # 1...the list was several days old. Problem # 2...not only were the world championships of Belgian Shephards this week, but there were Fashion events, and some kind of guiness recordbook high school dance thing. Summary: all rooms booked. Holy horror show batman.
As I'm walking out of the 5th hotel I inquired about, I remembered the first hotel had an internet cafe right behind the reservation desk. So, I stroll inside past the bellman, mumble "checking in" to him, walk past reservation desk like I was a guest and sat down at the terminal. Jedi mind trick works every time. I've never typed so quickly in my life. www.hotels.com "no vacancy for my requested dates". www.hostelS.com ONE vacancy in a 6 bedroom suite!!!! wow! I get a bedroom in a 6 bedroom suite for $34 bucks, awesome....click reserve, write down address, close browser, wipe sweat off my forehead, walk out.
Well, after 30 minutes of walking in circles with my bags (a lot of stuff that I'm going to have to send back home) I finally found the place. 3 floor walkup...ok, not too terrible. Walk inside and I'm greeted by a very nice woman who explains the situation, takes my passport, and shows me to my 6 bedroom suite. Video of my suite is below.
Now, I've been to sleep away camp, so this set up is very familiar. I wasn't prepared for my first ever hostel stay, but it was here and it was here quickly. She hands me a towel, points to my bed (yay! i'm on top at least), and leaves my "suite". At this point, I'm literally soaking wet with sweat and decided to take a shower while nobody was home. It was roughly 2 pm so everyone was out seeing the city and I was blessed with privacy. Showered up, sat down, filmed the video, and apparently dozed off sitting up for about 2 hours.
I then leave the hotel and immediately come accross this scene in the park....I was outraged but sadly, the office for tourist information and/or complaints was closed.
Apparently it's part of some kind of fashion week event and that's partially the reason I couldn't get a hotel room. I stayed at this outdoor runway show in the park for a few more minutes then headed towards the river. Please excuse the poor video in this one, I was walking and holding/hiding the camera in the palm of my hand down by my waist....a little shaky to say the least. In any event, you'll get the picture....bars/outdoor cafes all along the river that surrounds Ljubljana castle...a few bridges back and forth.
I have more to post on the second part of the evening, but these videos are taking forever...I'll do them later.
Wednesday, May 14, 2008
Post # 4: Sevilla
Sunday I bought a ticket to a big local futbol match between Sevilla and Real Betis. It's the equilavent of the Giants playing the Jets, only people actually live for who wins. It was a great game, but the team I was rooting for lost again...bad luck. The rest of the week was very mellow. I watched a lot of futbol, met a bunch of people from England, a few locals, and got very familiar with the Sevillian way of life. But before I got sucked into being a lazy Spaniard I figured I'd get out of here.
A few observations about Sevilla: the airport is small, only slightly larger than my apartment, and its about 10 minutes from the city center. While the people, and especially the women, are well dressed in a classy kind of way, they are nowhere near as materialistic as us Americans. No fake purses, no flashy jewelry, no pretending to be someone they are not. They are simply from Espana, and they are here to chill. Practically everyone, and I mean 90 out of every 100 cars are these teeny little hatchback types ala the Honda Civic or smaller versions of the Volkswagon Gulf. I've seen only 2 SUV's in 9 days here....this is a smart albeit lazy bunch. Another thing I found really peculiar is the fact that I didn't see one person wearing a baseball type hat, not one guy...even near the colleges. If anyone knows why, please fill me in.
Also, these people smoke like they are on death row, total insanity. It's impossible to eat breakfast indoors without choking on second hand smoke...and I'm talking about 7 am!! Ash tray with your eggs sir? Vomit..
And finally, the dollar-euro thing. For those of us living in New York or Miami, there is literally no difference, in fact, it's cheaper in Spain. A cab from newark to the city is 50 bucks...from barcelona to city is 30 euros ($45). vodka nyc =$10-14, 5-8 euros ($8-12), the bus costs 1.10 euro ($1.65), I paid 1.70 euro for a slice ($2.50), and most of my dinners were 8-10 euros ($12-$15) which included 2 tapas, a water and a beer.
(Fyi...food really sucks here...go with the chicken or the paella)
All in all, I picked a great place to start my trip because it enabled me to get used to being away and to really unwind before I head to lesser known destinations.
For those of who are wondering why I'm going to Slovenia, read the below email response I received from a hotel/apartment operator and you should have your answer:
Dear Mr Lee Scwartz,
thank you for your kind email and interest about Domacija House apartments and our beautiful country and city of Ljubljana.
We would realy like to meet you but unfortunately, all our apartments are already occupied for your date.
To help you, we're sending you data about our partner companies and we hope they'll find an appropriate accommodation for you:
Information about Apartments-Rooms Tour As:
Address : Mala ulica 8, Ljubljana, Slovenia
<http://www.apartmaji.si/> http://www.apartmaji.si
Phone + 386 1 434 26 60
Fax + 386 1 434 26 64
Klemen apartment
ljubljana.apartment@yahoo.com
Address: Vodnikova cesta 6
Phone: +386 31 401 728
Apartmaji MANDI & JENA
Tržaška 49, 1000 Ljubljana
Telefon
+386 1 590 10790
http://freeweb.siol.net/jena123
Apartments Vila Minka:
Address: Kogovskova 10, Ljubljana, Slovenia
http://www.vilaminka.si
E-mail: minka@vilaminka.si
Tel + 386 1 583 00 80
Fax + 386 1 507 46 91
I kindly invite you to visit our web site on www.tourist-apartment-ljubljana.com and you are very welcome in Domacija apartments at some other occasion.
We wish you to find a suitable accommodation in Ljubljana and good experience of Slovenian hospitality.
Lep pozdrav - Best Regards,
Simona Strnad with family
for Domacija Apartments,
Jelovskova 4,
Ljubljana, Slovenia
GSM + 386 31 691 558 - Simona
Phone + 386 1 42 92 660
www.tourist-apartment-ljubljana.com
Monday, May 12, 2008
Post # 3: Sevilla, gracias a dios.
I thought that traveling alone would be tough for me, but so far I really like the decision to go solo. After chatting with the waiter a bit en mi espanol gringo, I did a little walkabout and entered a busy bar where people were spilled over into the street. While ordering a drink at the bar in broken Spanish, a tall blonde from Holland asked if i spoke English.
A brief chat later, Holly brings me over to her group of friends, quite an eclectic group at that. She introduces me to two guys from Italy (36-38 years old and in sevilla taking spanish classes), a husband and wife from England, and Holly 1’s other friend from Holland (Holly 2) who was so cute because she cried every time she laughed. We had a lot of laughs for that hour or so we were together, then all of us HAD to go with Holly1 to find some Spanish waiter who was going to take them out. We found this guy and started to walk in the general direction of some night club…but, in typical fashion I decide to call it a night and ditch everyone. I let the 2 Hollys and Spaniard walk ahead, then gained a conscience and actually decided to say goodbye to the Italians. They explain that the Hollys are eighteen and twenty years old respectively, and they would rather leave them also and go with me to the “next place”. Since it had been three days since I’d spoken English with anyone, I took them up on the offer and recommended the Irish bar we passed about a block ago.
We ordered a round at the bar, and again, a little blond next to me hears English and…turns out she’s from Kansas city…go Chiefs! At this point, I’ve pretty much given up on meeting locals since we are in the touristy city center.
So KC Angie and I start bantering back and forth…and I must say, she’s really really funny. Her friend Jennifer was entertaining the Italians, or maybe the other way around - guess they didn’t see the wedding ring ;-). The five of us are having a really good time and Angie and I are just taking turns making each other laugh. I must say, there were probably 75 occasions to throw in the phrase “that’s what he/she said” (ala “The Office”), but she picked the absolute best 4 times to use it and I practically peed my pants. Needless to say, we walked into this pub at 12:30ish, and got kicked out at closing at 5:00 am. It’s been a long time since I made it out that late, and I have no intention of making a habit of it, but she was just that much fun.
Next up, a slighly more mellow saturday night, then live soccer on sunday...will post more tomorrow.
Post # 2: Barcelona...for a day
When the rest of the city woke back up, I finally found an Orange mobile store and bought a shining new Nokia like i had back in the late 90's con una numero de Espana. Now that my tasks for the day were done, I headed back to the hotel. I saw that FC Barcelona was going to play the champs from Real Madrid that night at 9:30, so my plans for that evening were set.
At night I headed for Las Ramblas in search of a good local spot to watch the game. I eventually came across a decent place and got all situated....a few minutes later, after Real Madrid went ahead 2-0 over the local team, the mood turns sour and everyone’s pretty pissed off. It’s at this moment I wish I was in Madrid because I’d be celebrating and dancing around after they eventually went ahead 3-0, then 4-0…uggh, a ROUT on my first night. I approached the only people in the room who didn't seem to be too upset and started to chat it up with this guy (turns out he's a basketball player from Louisiana who is in Barcelona playing for some local Euro team). He is sitting with three local lady friends; Mercedes, Sara, and some swedish girl who was actually from Holland and not Swedish at all...my bad. They live and work in Barcelona doing something that I couln't recall if my life depended on it. Nice crew, but I was tired and the game was a blowout so I called it quits.
Back at the hotel, and after a quick check of the weather, I realized that the next 5 days are rain, lluvia y mas lluvia...and roughly 55-65 degrees. However, down in southern spain (sevilla), I saw clear skies, 70-75 degrees and hesitated about 2 1/2 seconds before I booked a one way flight and i’m out of there the next day....
Wednesday, April 30, 2008
Post # 1: first stop Barcelona...May 6th
