Monday, May 26, 2008

Post # 9: videos I never uploaded

This first video is the final video of Kevin's apartment (where I'm staying)...I uploaded the first two videos the other day.



Next up I was invited to go sail the Black Sea by my roommates' friend Ben. Ben has been living in Odessa for 2 years as an English teacher, and is originally from the UK. I think he served for their royal army. In the video I am untying the sails before we set off.




Here we have Ben trying to figure out the issue with the sails...see if you can spot the dummy tangled up in the lines and my roommate offering much help (narrating).



And finally the onset of a full blown panic attack. a) I'm not so good with heights; b) The only word I could muster was "hmmm". 4 minutes later, we were moving again...good thing I had wodka with me.



I have more stories and things to post but it's getting late here and I'm trying to plan my next leg of the trip. I think I've learned about as much as I can here in Odessa and it's about time I hit the road before I get too comfortable.

Friday, May 23, 2008

Post # 8: Odessa with Borat

It has been a very interesting 3 days here in Odessa...the first 2 days in the hotel, and the last 24 hours at my new roommates' apartment. Life here has been very challenging to say the least, but it's all part of the experience and I'm doing the best I can with it. My jew-fro was acting up a bit so it was time for a haircut. Only one issue, they have 2 hairstyles here: Ukrainian army short, and something that I can only describe as shorter than Ukranian army short. There was no shot I could have explained to "take a little off here and there" so I did what any self-respecting new york princess would do....bought a pair of scissors on the street for $0.60 cents and trimmed my own hair in the hotel bathroom. It was either that, or ending up looking like my new friend Slavo who is pictured below. Oh, here are videos of my new diggs:






As far as happenings...hmmm, the futbol match I watched was probably one of the best matches I have seen. Here's a photo of my new friend Slavo who I met at the sports bar while watching the game. Turns out he was once one of Ukraine's seamen (giggle) who has been to the states several times. He loves Baltimore and Houston (probably because that's all he's seen) and can't wait to get back to there. Problem is, he's no longer a seaman (giggle), so getting back to the U S and A will be werry werry difficult. It was all I could do not to giggle when he told me he was a seaman (giggle) and I can't help myself every time I hear that word.
My new roomie and I went out last night, first to a Ukrainian restaurant, then to a lounge, then to another lounge. For dinner, I ordered the veal stew, which was absolutely delicious...if it weren't for the fact that it had more garlic per kilogram than any dish in the world, it would have been perfect.
The lounge scene was really quite interesting. Most of the people sadly do not speak English, and if they do, it's more of "Hi, my name Natasha, I secretary". The more educated Ukranians realize that in order to have the better opportunities, learning other languages is crucial. I have met several Ukranians that fall into this category, including Eugene pictured here in the Height Ashbury sweatshirt. He speaks perfect English, just LOVES san francisco and will make it to NYC in October where he will be my guest. He's a smart tech guy who creates a sort of anti-spam software...i believe it's for a company that may be a subsidiary of Cisco but who knows. He's smart, funny and just loves wwodka, Wayne's World, and especially Borat. He must have called me fellow 17 times (clearly meaning buddy or pal).."hey fellow, more Wodka?"..."hey fellow, when I come to the U S and A, we will have excellent time". Funny stuff.
So, the rest of the night last night and during the day today we strolled through the busier streets of Odessa. To give you an idea of what the style is like, take a look at what's hot on the streets of Odessa this season....(photos taken off the internet and not by me):



It's now Friday night and I expect to go to a nicer restaurant/lounge type place and really get to see how Odessians spend their weekends. I hope to post more over the next few days, and I also hope to get out of here and on to the next destination...just not sure where that is yet.

Wednesday, May 21, 2008

Post # 7: Odessa

Ahhh, sunshine and 73 degrees...a gorgeous day here in the Ukraine! Getting past customs was a little shaky and my first impression was that the language barrier is going to be very difficult here. After filling out the immigration form 3 times, access was granted to their new friend from the U S and A. My driver picked me up at the airport and drove me to the hotel. Apparently, traffic signals are optional here, and most intersections don't have stop or yield signs on any corner. It's sort of like a game of chicken, he who flinches first gets to stop at the corner and wait as the cars go by.

My hotel is average at best, but it's 10 blocks from the main street (Deribasovskaya). I'm only here 2 nights as for my apartment search started and ended in 3 minutes. Using the site hospitalityclub.org (another page out of The 4-Hour Workweek) I got in touch with an ex-patriot who gave me a large list of things to do. A phone call to him on my way to dinner last night resulted in the two of us meeting for a bite. Kevin turns out is from California and living in Odessa for a little over a year. He speaks Russian and gave me a few lessons that actually had me reading signs in about 3 minutes...cool! I can't understand a lick of it, but maybe I'll take some lessons while here.

In any event, dinner for two consisted of a sort-of Philly cheese steak sandwich for him, we split potato croquettes, and I had a chicken kabob dish...washed down with a coke for him, 2 waters for me, and a mini-carafe of vodka that probably poured a total of 3 or 4 vodkas each. All that was $26.00. Yikes, I'm a super magnate here....look out or I may just tip you 25%!

Ok, so Kevin...he's a real nice guy, one helluva host, probably 30 years old, and reminds me a lot of myself at that age...as for I, like him, was a jack of all trades, master of none. By the time I had reached that age, I had: a car wash/pressure clean/yard cleaning/moving furniture business during summers of college (called Nice College Kids), dabbled in sports gambling, had a short-lived sports-focused 900# business, owned 2 bars on south beach, had a minority interest in a start up telecom company that I later became more involved in, and for my day job, was VP of a family parking lot/garage business.

This guy's pretty much been all over Europe, and is currently working on: document translation services, business consulting, marraige consultant (uh oh), real estate broker (although not licensed), english teacher (again, not licensed), self improvement workshops similar to tony robbins stuff but more related to getting europeans to open up and smile, as well as a few other things. So, in our discussions about apartments, he gave me several options, most in the $95-$150/night range, then saved the best for last. A $70/night room in a 2 bedroom penthouse...as his roommate. I told him it was the best price I had seen, but I would have to see it first. I will get a video of it at a later date, but it was a cool place, probably about 2,000 square feet, and this guy speaks English AND Russian. Sold. I move in tomorrow afternoon...open ended. My guess is it'll be about a week or so, possibly longer, but we'll see.

I have photos and videos to load, but internet slow in the hotel...will do them soon. Tonight I'm off to watch the Futbol Champions League final match between 2 of my favorite teams, both from England. I'll be rooting for Chelsea. This is sort of the Super Bowl of Europe as for it's the final game of a competition between the top teams in each European country. Very rare that 2 teams from one country are in the final...sort of like 2 teams from the same state making the super bowl or world series, although it does happen (mets/yankees) so it's a pretty big match.

Again, great emails I'm receiving and glad that my typing is not falling on deaf ears. Keep them coming.

Nostrovia!

Monday, May 19, 2008

Post # 6: Ljubljana

It's now Monday the 19th and tomorrow will be 2 weeks since I left NYC. I'm back at my Slovenia apartment/hotel to pack up and move on. To clear up some confusion (mom), I only stayed at that 6 bedroom suite one night. I had made reservations at Vila Minka (one of the 3 places recommended by that email I posted earlier) for Friday - Tuesday. Since the World championship for Belgian Shepherds were held here last week, everyone was booked, thus the hostel (not hostile) situation. Vila Minka is run by a very hospitable, wonderful family who took care of me like I was their own son. They have a daughter who is studying hospitality management in Fort Lauderdale...when I mentioned that I grew up in Florida the mother had so much to talk about it was great. I assured her she was safe there and if she needed anything, to please get in touch with me and I'd send a Florida friend to help out. Ok, with that out of the way, my second night out in town. I ran into several of my 6-beds-in-a-suite mates down by the river and we had a few drinks while discussing our travels. One guy's from Jersey City, the other Canada, and the third was a girl from Finland. They were quite younger and thus on a very serious budget...when I recommended we go to another spot, they went bargain hunting. We ended up in a scene right out of the Lost Boys...punk rock city in a dead end street. That wasn't my bag, so I feigned sickness and made a beeline back to planet earth. On my way back I went into a karaoke bar...the highlight of the evening...



and there's this one:



As for the rest of the trip, it rained today and most of yesterday, so I took advantage and actually started to plan out the rest of my trip. The internet connection here at Vila Minka is great, so I've been taking care of some things that I didn't finish before I left. But to summarize my 5 days here in Ljubljana...Slovenians are a very friendly, hard working bunch. I notice that their office day starts pretty early, 7:30 or 8 am I think. Everyone under the age of say 40 speaks English fluently, and most of them speak at least 3 languages. It was quite impressive to have the Ipod store guy speak Slovenian on the phone, assist me in English, help the next guy in French, and I'm sure he speaks Italian as well. Due to their proximity to Italy, ice cream or gelato is HUGE here and a lot of locals speak Italian.


Slovenian food was significantly better than Spanish cuisine; the only issue I had was their confusion of some English phrases. Most evident was actually the best tasting dish I had since I left the states. It was sea bass, served with some kind of potato and either broccoli or spinach mixture. It was amazing but its name...wait for it...."Pretty Fishy". I tried to explain to the waiter that they probably meant to name it Pretty Fish because when something is "fishy", well, it's usually not so good. Needless to say, this was not fishy at all, and actually quite pretty since they braided the sea bass fillets into a pie-like formation. I ended up speaking to another solo traveler who was seated next to me, a brown-haired, librarian-type Swedish girl who was in Slovenia for a conference. She's essentially the equivalent of a PHD student who's working on a project (ex-swedes who moved away and are working abroad). I told her I knew such a person in the states (hi Angelica) and I'd get the two of them in touch.



And finally, the dollar-euro thing again. Your euro goes significantly further here (all comparisons I'm using 1.5:1 euro to dollar even though it's a few pennies more):


A local beer: 1.50 euro = $2.25

vodka soda: 3.00 euro = $4.50

pasta dinner: 7.00 euro = $10.50

a cappuccino, an ice cream, or bus ride: 1.00 euro = $1.50

ham and cheese sandwich: 3.00 euro = $4.50


Basically, I saved a fortune by being here instead of NYC this week. If you are planning on coming to Slovenia, I highly recommend staying at Vila Minka and I also recommend renting a car.


Now for what will surely be the least expensive leg of the trip; Odessa, Ukraine. I was headed to Italy this week, but it's supposed to rain there and most of central europe all week long...crap. I have a friend going to Italy for 2 weeks so if the rain clears up, I'll be there. After another quick check of the weather forecast, the only clear skies were Bucharest or Odessa...so that's where I'm headed. I'll make it back to Italy next week when the weather clears up or possibly hit Bucharest and Budapest first.

Also, the emails I have received are great. The more I receive, the more inspired I am to keep posting and it's nice to know people are actually reading this thing. Feel free to email me some thoughts or just a simple hello! Oh, and Mom, I have a hotel booked, a ride picking me up at the airport, and a local guide for the first 2 days to show me around...so no more "you're too old to be staying in a hostel" texts!
;-)

Saturday, May 17, 2008

Post # 5: Slovenia: Ljubljana

The flight from Sevilla-Barcelona-Ljubljana went very smoothly, arrived in LJ on time to a relatively new airport. My mercedes taxi (it was either that or a BMW and I'm no dummy) took me to the center of town where I was to search for accomodations. I had purposefully not booked something because I didn't want to make the same mistake I made in Sevilla (reserving a room in a hotel that was in the "center" of town only to find out it was 10 minutes by cab away). My virtual assistant sent me a listing of approx 10 places to stay all within the city center. Problem # 1...the list was several days old. Problem # 2...not only were the world championships of Belgian Shephards this week, but there were Fashion events, and some kind of guiness recordbook high school dance thing. Summary: all rooms booked. Holy horror show batman.


As I'm walking out of the 5th hotel I inquired about, I remembered the first hotel had an internet cafe right behind the reservation desk. So, I stroll inside past the bellman, mumble "checking in" to him, walk past reservation desk like I was a guest and sat down at the terminal. Jedi mind trick works every time. I've never typed so quickly in my life. www.hotels.com "no vacancy for my requested dates". www.hostelS.com ONE vacancy in a 6 bedroom suite!!!! wow! I get a bedroom in a 6 bedroom suite for $34 bucks, awesome....click reserve, write down address, close browser, wipe sweat off my forehead, walk out.


Well, after 30 minutes of walking in circles with my bags (a lot of stuff that I'm going to have to send back home) I finally found the place. 3 floor walkup...ok, not too terrible. Walk inside and I'm greeted by a very nice woman who explains the situation, takes my passport, and shows me to my 6 bedroom suite. Video of my suite is below.





Now, I've been to sleep away camp, so this set up is very familiar. I wasn't prepared for my first ever hostel stay, but it was here and it was here quickly. She hands me a towel, points to my bed (yay! i'm on top at least), and leaves my "suite". At this point, I'm literally soaking wet with sweat and decided to take a shower while nobody was home. It was roughly 2 pm so everyone was out seeing the city and I was blessed with privacy. Showered up, sat down, filmed the video, and apparently dozed off sitting up for about 2 hours.


I then leave the hotel and immediately come accross this scene in the park....I was outraged but sadly, the office for tourist information and/or complaints was closed.




Apparently it's part of some kind of fashion week event and that's partially the reason I couldn't get a hotel room. I stayed at this outdoor runway show in the park for a few more minutes then headed towards the river. Please excuse the poor video in this one, I was walking and holding/hiding the camera in the palm of my hand down by my waist....a little shaky to say the least. In any event, you'll get the picture....bars/outdoor cafes all along the river that surrounds Ljubljana castle...a few bridges back and forth.




I have more to post on the second part of the evening, but these videos are taking forever...I'll do them later.


Wednesday, May 14, 2008

Post # 4: Sevilla

It is now Thursday the 15th...been gone 9 days. I'm at the Sevilla airport on my way to Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia. The rest of my stay in Sevilla was quite relaxing. Saturday night I went to this area called Almeida de Hercules or sometrhing like that. It reminded of Lincoln Road on south beach, only it was lined with tapas restaurants and bars, no shops. I started out at a place called Republica where I saw and was waited on by the prettiest girl in Sevilla. Oh, that's another thing...the Sevillan crowd is an attractive one, and quite proud of their laid back lifestyle. At around 10pm KC Angie and her girls called so they came over and met me. They had picked up 2 neurosurgeons from Granada at their hotel bar (or maybe the other way around), and the six of us had drinks and tapas. Afterwards, they recommended this upscale lounge they found the other night...my favorite place in Sevilla (don't know name of it but its around the corner from an irish pub named Oneills). We all were pretty sluggish from the night before but managed to have a few drinks and another fun time. At the end of the night, I said goodbye to the KC crew because they were leaving the next day.

Sunday I bought a ticket to a big local futbol match between Sevilla and Real Betis. It's the equilavent of the Giants playing the Jets, only people actually live for who wins. It was a great game, but the team I was rooting for lost again...bad luck. The rest of the week was very mellow. I watched a lot of futbol, met a bunch of people from England, a few locals, and got very familiar with the Sevillian way of life. But before I got sucked into being a lazy Spaniard I figured I'd get out of here.

A few observations about Sevilla: the airport is small, only slightly larger than my apartment, and its about 10 minutes from the city center. While the people, and especially the women, are well dressed in a classy kind of way, they are nowhere near as materialistic as us Americans. No fake purses, no flashy jewelry, no pretending to be someone they are not. They are simply from Espana, and they are here to chill. Practically everyone, and I mean 90 out of every 100 cars are these teeny little hatchback types ala the Honda Civic or smaller versions of the Volkswagon Gulf. I've seen only 2 SUV's in 9 days here....this is a smart albeit lazy bunch. Another thing I found really peculiar is the fact that I didn't see one person wearing a baseball type hat, not one guy...even near the colleges. If anyone knows why, please fill me in.
Also, these people smoke like they are on death row, total insanity. It's impossible to eat breakfast indoors without choking on second hand smoke...and I'm talking about 7 am!! Ash tray with your eggs sir? Vomit..
And finally, the dollar-euro thing. For those of us living in New York or Miami, there is literally no difference, in fact, it's cheaper in Spain. A cab from newark to the city is 50 bucks...from barcelona to city is 30 euros ($45). vodka nyc =$10-14, 5-8 euros ($8-12), the bus costs 1.10 euro ($1.65), I paid 1.70 euro for a slice ($2.50), and most of my dinners were 8-10 euros ($12-$15) which included 2 tapas, a water and a beer.
(Fyi...food really sucks here...go with the chicken or the paella)

All in all, I picked a great place to start my trip because it enabled me to get used to being away and to really unwind before I head to lesser known destinations.

For those of who are wondering why I'm going to Slovenia, read the below email response I received from a hotel/apartment operator and you should have your answer:

Dear Mr Lee Scwartz,
 
thank you for your kind email and interest about Domacija House apartments and our beautiful country and city of Ljubljana.

We would realy like to meet you but unfortunately, all our apartments are already occupied for your date. 
To help you, we're sending you data about our partner companies and we hope they'll find an appropriate accommodation for you:
 

Information about Apartments-Rooms Tour As:
Address : Mala ulica 8, Ljubljana, Slovenia
<http://www.apartmaji.si/> http://www.apartmaji.si

Phone + 386 1 434 26 60
Fax + 386 1 434 26 64 
Klemen apartment
ljubljana.apartment@yahoo.com
Address: Vodnikova cesta 6
Phone: +386 31 401 728

Apartmaji MANDI & JENA
Tržaška 49, 1000 Ljubljana

Telefon
+386 1 590 10790

http://freeweb.siol.net/jena123

Apartments Vila Minka:
Address: Kogovskova 10, Ljubljana, Slovenia
http://www.vilaminka.si
E-mail: minka@vilaminka.si
Tel + 386 1 583 00 80
Fax + 386 1 507 46 91
 
I kindly invite you to visit our web site on www.tourist-apartment-ljubljana.com and you are very welcome in Domacija apartments at some other occasion.

We wish you to find a suitable accommodation in Ljubljana and good experience of Slovenian hospitality.

Lep pozdrav - Best Regards,
Simona Strnad with family

for Domacija Apartments,
Jelovskova 4,
Ljubljana, Slovenia
GSM + 386 31 691 558 - Simona
Phone + 386 1 42 92 660
www.tourist-apartment-ljubljana.com

Monday, May 12, 2008

Post # 3: Sevilla, gracias a dios.

Wow, night and day, Sevilla vs. Barcelona. In my opinion, Sevilla is much prettier and i actually feel 100 times safer here. The weather is perfect (70-75 daytime, 60’s at night) and the people are much friendlier…i feel like i’m in a different country. Granted, they don’t have the history or nearly as many tourist places to see as Barcelona, but if you’re not traveling for that, Sevilla is your spot. The center of town is made up of narrow streets that wind around in little circles and spin off in all directions. About half of them are too narrow for cars and it´s been fun getting lost only to end up back where I started. All throughout there are these awesome little cafes and bars serving tapas and other local food. If I had no ambition, didn’t care about ever making money ever again, wanted to hang out all night with people from all over the world, and then sleep all day, Sevilla would be my utopia.

Ok, so Thursday night I rested from all the NYC to Barcelona to Sevilla travel, so let’s jump to Friday night. I started out in the center of town at a little tourist tapas restaurant where I sampled the croquetas and a little plate of paella…great stuff!

I thought that traveling alone would be tough for me, but so far I really like the decision to go solo. After chatting with the waiter a bit en mi espanol gringo, I did a little walkabout and entered a busy bar where people were spilled over into the street. While ordering a drink at the bar in broken Spanish, a tall blonde from Holland asked if i spoke English.

A brief chat later, Holly brings me over to her group of friends, quite an eclectic group at that. She introduces me to two guys from Italy (36-38 years old and in sevilla taking spanish classes), a husband and wife from England, and Holly 1’s other friend from Holland (Holly 2) who was so cute because she cried every time she laughed. We had a lot of laughs for that hour or so we were together, then all of us HAD to go with Holly1 to find some Spanish waiter who was going to take them out. We found this guy and started to walk in the general direction of some night club…but, in typical fashion I decide to call it a night and ditch everyone. I let the 2 Hollys and Spaniard walk ahead, then gained a conscience and actually decided to say goodbye to the Italians. They explain that the Hollys are eighteen and twenty years old respectively, and they would rather leave them also and go with me to the “next place”. Since it had been three days since I’d spoken English with anyone, I took them up on the offer and recommended the Irish bar we passed about a block ago.

We ordered a round at the bar, and again, a little blond next to me hears English and…turns out she’s from Kansas city…go Chiefs! At this point, I’ve pretty much given up on meeting locals since we are in the touristy city center.

So KC Angie and I start bantering back and forth…and I must say, she’s really really funny. Her friend Jennifer was entertaining the Italians, or maybe the other way around - guess they didn’t see the wedding ring ;-). The five of us are having a really good time and Angie and I are just taking turns making each other laugh. I must say, there were probably 75 occasions to throw in the phrase “that’s what he/she said” (ala “The Office”), but she picked the absolute best 4 times to use it and I practically peed my pants. Needless to say, we walked into this pub at 12:30ish, and got kicked out at closing at 5:00 am. It’s been a long time since I made it out that late, and I have no intention of making a habit of it, but she was just that much fun.

Next up, a slighly more mellow saturday night, then live soccer on sunday...will post more tomorrow.

Post # 2: Barcelona...for a day

3 vodkas, 2 tylenol pm’s and 8 hours later i awoke as Continental landed in barcelona. The flight was great, slept right through dinner and breakfast, then cabbed to the hotel, then went exploring the city center to get a few things done. Getting around barcelona wasn't easy. I found myself walking around for the first few hours, looking for a cell phone store, not realizing that everyone is on "siesta" from like 2 til roughly 6. As far as accomodations, after quite a long internet search and asking many locals in the area, my choices were sadly either hostels (not ready for that yet), or hotels. I decided to make the best of it, resigned to the fact that I'll be at the hotel for however long, and just enjoy Barcelona. So I hit a few tourist destinations, seeing the sagrada de la familia ,Picasso museum and one or two others. Most importantly though, left camera at the hotel...

When the rest of the city woke back up, I finally found an Orange mobile store and bought a shining new Nokia like i had back in the late 90's con una numero de Espana. Now that my tasks for the day were done, I headed back to the hotel. I saw that FC Barcelona was going to play the champs from Real Madrid that night at 9:30, so my plans for that evening were set.

At night I headed for Las Ramblas in search of a good local spot to watch the game. I eventually came across a decent place and got all situated....a few minutes later, after Real Madrid went ahead 2-0 over the local team, the mood turns sour and everyone’s pretty pissed off. It’s at this moment I wish I was in Madrid because I’d be celebrating and dancing around after they eventually went ahead 3-0, then 4-0…uggh, a ROUT on my first night. I approached the only people in the room who didn't seem to be too upset and started to chat it up with this guy (turns out he's a basketball player from Louisiana who is in Barcelona playing for some local Euro team). He is sitting with three local lady friends; Mercedes, Sara, and some swedish girl who was actually from Holland and not Swedish at all...my bad. They live and work in Barcelona doing something that I couln't recall if my life depended on it. Nice crew, but I was tired and the game was a blowout so I called it quits.

Back at the hotel, and after a quick check of the weather, I realized that the next 5 days are rain, lluvia y mas lluvia...and roughly 55-65 degrees. However, down in southern spain (sevilla), I saw clear skies, 70-75 degrees and hesitated about 2 1/2 seconds before I booked a one way flight and i’m out of there the next day....